The Ride: Col de la Croix de Fer

Col de la Croix de Fer – Pass of the Iron Cross – is a stunning mountain pass accessible from Allemond (from the south west), or Saint Jean de Maurienne (from the north east). I’ve only ridden the Allemond route, which is what I’ll describe below. Having driven down the other side, I can confirm it looks outstanding.

Croix de Fer is a long climb, with a cheeky surprise in the middle, steep sections and some of the most beautiful scenery you could ever hope to ride through. Riding this for the first time in 2013, I learned an important lesson about scale in the mountains, when a “long wall” in the distance revealed itself to be the 140m high Le Barrage du Grand Maison. With capacity for 140 million cubic metres of water in its reservoir, it is the largest hydroelectric dam in France and a striking reminder of the role the mountains play in everyday life.

Barrage to Grand Maison. A phenomenal and welcome sight near the top of Croix de Fer

The climb from Allemond is 31km long and offers a great opportunity to ease yourself into the route as you roll through the town and wind your way up the hairpins which bring you to Lac du Verney. Following the lac, which is fed by (and pumps back up to) Le Barrage du Grand Maison, you enjoy a few kilometres of relatively flat road before entering the forest and beginning the ‘climb proper’.

You immediately feel this first, long section of the climb. Staying within the trees, gradients average 7% – 10% and often closer to the latter. Be sure to look around you and enjoy the numerous waterfalls you’ll pass. After 5km, you reach Le Rivier d’Allemont at 13km overlooking a gorge. If you’re out for the day, there’s a creperie (Creperie Les Favets) which is a good spot to refuel, refill your water and prepare for section two, which starts with a nasty twist!

After a flat kilometre or so, you descend into the gorge and immediately pay for this fun with a very steep climb out the other side. The road marker you see shows an average of 9%. Unfortunately, you’re going downhill when you read this sign and the climb quickly pitches up into double figures! Take note of the steepness and road surface too – if you’ll be returning this way, scrub off extra speed as the surface is unforgiving. Having seen a helicopter team tend to a cyclist who had misjudged the descent, it’s an important reminder that whilst the mountains are fun, you need to take care.

View from the Barrage du Grand Maison, looking back down the valley

You’ve dealt with the steepest sections now, moving above the treeline to hug sheer rock faces and make your way to Le Barrage du Grand Maison. The view back down the valley you’ve just climbed through is breath taking and the view ahead past the reservoir makes the effort all worthwhile. There’s more climbing to come, but you’ve broken the back of this epic ride now.

An ease in gradient is hugely welcome and you can make good time as the high meadow comes into view and you descend into it. Of course, what goes down, must go up (or something like that) and whilst the gradient never strains like the earlier sections, 20+ kms of climbing in your legs is real. My two rides of this Col couldn’t have ended more differently. Attempt one ended with a confident flurry to the summit visible in the image below. The second time around I took the photo below because I needed a little sit down…

Finishing straight. From the Glandon turn off, you’re heading to the right of that peak.

As you pass the turn off to Col du Glandon, the end is in sight. Take in your surroundings, acknowledge a job well done and ride up passed the ski lifts – always a sure sign that you’ve gained some good elevation! The views from the top are truly stunning and remains one of the most impressive sights I’ve ever seen on my bike.

A fine view, very much earned. Enjoy some refreshments at the summit cafe

Done. Easy as that. Col de la Croix de Fer is a special place to ride a bike and, like most of the Alps, is very much accessible despite its length. Plan for a long ride, ease into the early sections and save your energy for the tough, steep, middle which leads to the barrage. Settle back in for the final third, enjoying the meadows and don’t forget to smile for the camera – photo breton are usually on hand to capture your enjoyment! One of the gems of the French Alps is in the bag!

Depending on your plan for the day, carry on down the other side to Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne and back over Col du Glandon, or turn around and enjoy a fantastic descent back to Allemond. If you’re going this way, be sure to take the 50 metre detour to Col du Glandon at the Chalet col du Glandon. On a good day you can make out Mont Blanc in the distance.

Happy Riding!!

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